Choosing the right weight is a balance of science and horse-sense. Use the table below as your starting point, but always check the “wither test”: slip your hand under the rug at the shoulder; your horse should feel warm but never damp or clammy.
Rugging Guide by Temperature
| Temperature (°C) | Unclipped (Hardy/Native) | Clipped (Fine/Sport Types) | Stabled (No Shelter) |
| 15°C+ | No rug / Fly sheet | No rug / Summer sheet | No rug / Thin sheet |
| 10°C to 15°C | No rug | 0g – 100g (Lightweight) | 0g – 50g |
| 5°C to 10°C | 0g – 50g (Rain sheet) | 100g – 200g (Medium) | 100g – 150g |
| 0°C to 5°C | 100g – 200g (Medium) | 200g – 300g (Heavy) | 200g – 250g |
| Below 0°C | 200g – 300g + Neck | 350g+ + Neck + Liner | 300g+ with Liner |
Choosing the Right Fit for Horse Type
A rug that fits the temperature but not the horse will cause painful rubs and “rug-slip.”
* For High Withers (e.g., Thoroughbreds, Warmbloods):
* The Problem: Standard rugs often pull back and put immense pressure on the wither bone.
* The Solution: Look for “Wug” or High-Neck designs. These sit further up the neck, distributing pressure away from the wither. Front gussets are essential to allow shoulder freedom without the rug tightening across the chest.
* For Wide Chests & Low Withers (e.g., Cobs, Quarter Horses):
* The Problem: Rugs often “gape” at the chest or feel restrictive across the shoulders.
* The Solution: Choose rugs with adjustable clip-front fastenings rather than fixed buckles. Deep-cut shoulder gussets ensure the rug doesn’t “tightrope” across their chest when they graze.
* For the “Rug Wrecker”:
* Don’t just look at weight; look at Denier. A 1200D (Denier) outer is the industry standard for durability, while 1680D or Ballistic Nylon is the “gold standard” for horses that play rough in the herd.
Expert Tip: The “Clip Factor”
Removing the horse’s natural insulation means you must compensate for the loss of the “piloerection” (the horse’s ability to fluff up its coat to trap heat).
* Full Clip: Treat the horse as if the temperature is 5°C colder than it actually is.
* Trace/Chaser Clip: Focus on keeping the core warm with a good quality medium-weight rug; the unclipped legs and upper neck will help them regulate.
The JSM Rug Care & Storage Checklist
A high-quality horse rug is an investment. Proper maintenance can extend the life of a turnout rug from two seasons to ten. Follow our expert-led checklist to keep your horse dry and your gear durable.
1. Mid-Season Maintenance
* Daily De-mudding: Allow mud to dry, then use a stiff dandy brush to remove it. Caked-on mud can weigh down the fabric and compromise the “breathability” of the outer membrane.
* Check the Hardware: Regularly inspect surcingles and leg straps. A broken clip can lead to a slipped rug, which is a major safety hazard in the field.
* Spot Cleaning: Use a damp sponge on the inner lining (especially around the chest and tail flap) to remove grease and sweat buildup that causes rubs.
2. The End-of-Season Deep Clean
* Professional Wash: Never use standard household detergents; they strip the waterproof Teflon or PU coating. Use a specialist Rambo Wash or rug-safe soap.
* Re-Proofing: Every 1–2 years, your turnout rugs will need a “re-proofer.” This restores the “beading” effect where water rolls off the surface rather than soaking in.
* Complete Dry: Ensure rugs are bone-dry before folding. Storing a damp rug is the fastest way to ruin the stitching with mold and mildew.
3. Smart Storage Solutions
* Rug Bags: Store clean, dry rugs in breathable zippered bags. Avoid plastic bins that trap moisture; use canvas or mesh-topped storage bags.
* Label Everything: Use luggage tags on the front buckle with the horse’s name and the rug weight (e.g., “Beau – 200g Mediumweight”). It saves time during those dark winter morning turnouts!
* Vermin Protection: Store your rug bags on raised stable racks or in sealed tack trunks to prevent rodents from using your expensive fillings for nesting material.
How to Measure Your Horse for a Rug: The JSM Accuracy Guide
A poorly fitted rug is more than just an eyesore—it causes painful shoulder rubs, slipped rugs, and restricted movement. Follow our simple 3-step measurement process to ensure your horse stays comfortable in the stable or field.
The JSM 3-Step Measurement Method
To get the most accurate result, you will need a flexible fabric tape measure and a friend to hold the other end (or your horse’s favorite treat to keep them still!).
* The Starting Point: Place the end of the tape measure at the center of the horse’s chest, right where the neck meets the chest.
* The Path: Run the tape measure along the side of the body, staying level and following the curve of the barrel. Pass over the widest part of the shoulder and across the hindquarters.
* The Finish Line: Stop the tape measure at the very edge of the buttock (the “buttock point”), just before the tail starts.
> Pro Tip: In the UK, horse rugs are traditionally measured in feet and inches (e.g., 6’3″). If your measurement falls between sizes, it is usually better to size up rather than down to avoid shoulder restriction.
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Horse Rug Size Conversion Chart
| Measurement (cm) | Measurement (Feet/Inches) | Rug Size to Order |
| 152 cm | 5’0″ | 5’0″ |
| 160 cm | 5’3″ | 5’3″ |
| 168 cm | 5’6″ | 5’6″ |
| 175 cm | 5’9″ | 5’9″ |
| 183 cm | 6’0″ | 6’0″ |
| 191 cm | 6’3″ | 6’3″ |
| 198 cm | 6’6″ | 6’6″ |
| 206 cm | 6’9″ | 6’9″ |
| 213 cm | 7’0″ | 7’0″ |
Troubleshooting Common Fit Issues
Even with the right measurement, different brands cut their rugs differently. Check these three areas:
* The Neckline: The rug should sit about 2–4 inches in front of the wither. If it slips back behind the wither, it’s too big and will cause pressure.
* The Chest: You should be able to slide a flat hand easily between the rug and the horse’s chest. If it’s too tight, it will rub the shoulders; if it’s too loose, the rug may slip sideways.
* The Length: The rug should cover the horse’s belly but not hang down past the knees/hocks. A rug that is too deep can be dangerous if the horse gets a leg caught while rolling.